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How to Prepare for Hydroseeding
Properly prepared soil will directly reflect the health and appearance of the lawn for years to come. Ideally, we would like to see the top 4-6 inches of soil loosened prior to hydroseeding. A high percentage of turf problems can be traced to poor or improperly prepared soil. Most construction sites become severely compacted and this impedes the movement of air, water and the ability of the roots to penetrate through the soil. Sometimes the original topsoil is removed or covered up by the spoils from the basement excavation of the new home.
Adding a few inches of topsoil over compacted soil will not completely fix the situation. This will cause a shallow root system that will not be drought tolerant. The best approach to properly prepared for turf is to amend the existing soil by tilling decomposed organic matter into the existing soil (i.e. fertile mulch, peat moss, decomposed sawdust, etc.) If this
approach is not possible due to extremely rocky soil or other reasons then the next best option would be to bring in enough good topsoil to spread at least 6 inches over the entire area.

TIPS & PREPARATION

To ensure the ground is ready for tilling, please review the following steps before we arrive at your location.
Measure the lawn area. You can measure by hand or use a program such as google earth to determine the area of your lawn area.
Eliminate existing vegetation by applying an herbicide such as glyphosate. Wait the recommended time for vegetation to die. Re-apply if needed.
Remove any rocks or other debris. Make sure any stumps, roots, bricks or other major obstacles below the surface are removed.
Examine the soil. The soil is made up of sand, silt, and clay particles. The percentage of these ingredients determines the texture of your soil. Sandy soils will let water and air pass readily be, however, they also dry out very quickly allowing nutrients levels to be flushed away before they have a chance to do any good. Clay soils transfer water and air very slowly and cause soils to remain soggy while starving the roots of needed oxygen. Adding organic matter will greatly enhance both sand and clay soils.
Establish a rough grade. Fill in low spots, and make sure to grade slopes away from buildings. If you need grading work done call us and we can give you a quote for a small tractor to grade your yard.
Spread soil amendments (decomposed organic matter). Enough organic matter should be added to physically change the texture of the soil to a depth of about 5 to 6 inches. It is best to avoid having layers of different soil in the top 5-6 inches. About 1-2 inches of organic matter mixed into the top 4-6 inches of soil is usually sufficient (3-6 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet). Topsoil is a very vague term. Most of the soils on the market are manufactures products and vary a great deal in composition. Make some inquiries before purchasing.
Till organic material down to 5 to 6 inches (Call Pro Tilling and Hydroseeding to schedule tilling)
Ensure sprinkler system is functioning property. It may be best to install a new sprinkler system prior to tilling to avoid re-compacting the soil.
Rake the soil smooth to establish the final grade.
Call Pro Tilling and Hydroseeding to schedule your custom hydroseeding. We use only the highest quality seed, mulch and fertilizers. Our products and workmanship are guaranteed.
Post Hydroseeding Instructions
Day 1: Start watering 24 hours after the initial hydroseeding. Water 3-4 times a day. Keep the ground wet. Avoid water that runs off grass area. Do not over-water or water at night.

Golden Rule: Keep the ground we all day (without standing water for more than 1 hour). Every lawn and every irrigation system is unique. When in doubt apply golden rule.

Day 7-14: -Germination takes place, water 3-4 times a day for the first month.

Day 14-45: -Fertilize lightly. Apply half of the recommended amount of a starter fertilizer. Do not use any kind of weed killer.

Day 30 - 60: -First mowing takes place when the grass is between 2” to 3” (Be sure the mower blade is sharp).
-Fertilize again with half the recommended amount of starter fertilizer.
-Begin mowing weekly. (This is critical! It will force the grass to spread out and fill in.)
-Begin watering once a day.

Day 90 - 120: -Apply good quality weed and feed. Follow directions on the bag exactly.

Key NOtes

Watering
The first 14 days of watering are critical to proper germination. Review watering times daily to ensure
complete coverage. Adjust sprinklers or watering times as needed. Do not over-water or water at night.
Reduce watering after the first mowing.
After the lawn is established, water longer rather than more frequently. A light watering will encourage the
roots to grow shallow and will weaken the lawn.
Fertilizing
Depending on your environment and/or seed bed preparation. Weeds may or may not grow with the new
grass. They may be killed at a later time with normal application of weed and feed. Do not use any kind of
weed killer within the first 60 days.
We recommend a 4 to 6 step fertilization program be started to give your lawn the nutrient it needs and
keep it healthy.
Mowing
Due to differences in soil conditions and Ph balances, it is not uncommon to have small patches that do not
germinate. May of these areas will fill in when you begin mowing on a weekly basis. You must ensure that
slow germinating areas are not caused by lack of water.
In times of stress, such as during hot, dry weather your grass should be mowed a little longer than usual to
conserve moisture. It is healthier to mow more frequently than to allow the lawn to grow very tall and then
remove a large portion of the grass all at once.
After grass is established mowing height should be at least 3” but not more than 5”.
Long Term Lawn Care
Aeration
Aerate Lawn yearly (for clayey soils it is beneficial to aerate twice a year)
Power Raking
Typically Power Raking should be done once every 2 to 5 years.
Fertilizing
It is good to give your lawn the nutrients that it needs throughout the year. There are many fertilizing programs that work. The IFA 4 step fertilizer program is a good one I have found to do it yourself.
Mowing
Mowing should be done weekly.
Lawn should be dry when mowing.
The mower blade should be sharp.
The mower height should be between 2 1/2" and 3 1/2"
Gardening Tips
1. If its getting cold and you have tomatoes still ripening on the vine. Pull the plants up and bring them inside to a warm dry place. Hang them up, and the tomatoes will ripen on the vine.

2. Companion planting is an excellent way to improve your garden. Some plants replenish nutrients lost by another one, and some combinations effectively keep pests away.

3. Paint the handles of your gardens tools a bright, color other than green to help you find them among your plants.

4. Compost needs time to integrate and stabilize in the soil. Apply several weeks prior to planting.

5. There is an easy way to mix compost into your soil without a lot of back breaking work: Spread the compost over your garden in the late fall, after all the harvesting is done. Cover with a winter mulch such as hay or chopped leaves and let nature take its course. By spring, the melting snow and soil organisms will have worked the compost in for you.

6. Like vining vegetables, but don’t have the room? Train your melons, squash, and cucumbers onto a vertical trellis or fence. Saves space and looks pretty too.
7. Garden vegetables that become over-ripe are an easy target for some pests. Remove them as soon as possible to avoid detection.

8. Onions are ready to harvest when the tops have fallen over. Let the soil dry out, harvest, and store in a warm, dry, dark place until the tops dry. Cut off the foliage down to an inch, then store in a cool, dry area.

9. Keep dirt off lettuce and cabbage leaves when growing by spreading a 1-2 inch layer of mulch (untreated by pesticides or fertilizers) around each plant. This also helps keep the weeds down.

10. When planting a flower or vegetable transplant, deposit a handful of compost into each hole. Compost will provide transplants with an extra boost that lasts throughout the growing season.

11. Insects can’t stand plants such as garlic, onions, chives and chrysanthemums. Grow these plants around the garden to help repel insects.

12. Milk jugs, soda bottles and other plastic containers make great mini-covers to place over your plants and protect them from frost.

13. For easy peas, start them indoors. The germination rate is far better, and the seedlings will be healthier and better able to fight off pests and disease.
14. Healthy soil means healthy plants that are better able to resist pests and disease, reducing the need for harmful pesticides.

15. Another reason to use natural and organic fertilizers and soil amendments: earthworms love them! Earthworms are extremely beneficial in the vegetable garden; increasing air space in the soil and leaving behind worm castings. Do what you can to encourage earthworms in your soil.

16. Diatomaceous earth makes an excellent organic insecticide – it is an abrasive white powder used to damage the cuticle, skin and joints of insects. It also makes an excellent slug barrier.

17. Some vegetables actually become better after a first frost, including kale, cabbage, parsnips, carrots, and Brussels sprouts.

18. When transplanting tomatoes, cover the stem with soil all the way up to the first set of leaves. This greatly encourages root growth, making a stronger, healthier plant.

19. Healthy soil means a thriving population of microbes, earthworms and other organisms. A soil that has “good tilth” will produce robust garden plants that are better able to resist pests and disease.
​20. A simple five percent increase in organic material (compost) quadruples the soil’s ability to store water.

21. Plants will do best if they are well suited to your growing area. Take some time to read up and choose plants accordingly.

22. Keep garden vegetables from getting dirty by spreading a couple inch layer of mulch (untreated by pesticides or fertilizers) around each plant. This will also help keep the weeds down.

23. Water your garden in the early morning to conserve moisture loss and to help avoid powdery mildew and other fungal diseases that are often spread by high humidity levels.

24. If you’re short on space, garlic, leeks and shallots make excellent container plants. They tend to have few insect or disease problems and don’t require much room for roots.

25. Over watering is worse than under watering. It is easier to revive a dry plant than try to dry out drowned roots.

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